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Guide›Things to do›Sandsend and the North Yorkshire Coast Without a Car

Sandsend and the North Yorkshire Coast Without a Car

Sandsend and East Row sit about three miles north of Whitby on the A174, and both are reachable without a car by the X4 and X93 buses that run along the coast, or by the Cinder Track walking and cycling path from Whitby. Staithes, roughly ten miles further north, is served by the X4 bus and by the hourly Northern rail service to Staithes station, a steep half-mile walk above the village. Runswick Bay, between them, is reached by the X4 bus to the top of the bay and a footpath down to the sand.

01 What is there to see in Sandsend and East Row without a car?

Low morning light on the beach at Sandsend, looking north toward the alum works headland, with the sea wall and a row of houses on the right and wet sand reflecting the sky.
Low morning light on the beach at Sandsend, looking north toward the alum works headland, with the sea wall and a row of houses on the right and wet sand reflecting the sky.

Sandsend is a small village at the mouth of the East Row beck, where the sand runs north for about a mile toward Whitby. The beach itself is the main draw: a flat, firm stretch of sand at low tide, backed by a sea wall and a row of houses, with the Lythe Bank headland behind. At the northern end, the remains of the alum works at Sandsend Ness are visible as grassy mounds and low walls on the cliff top, reached by a path from the village. East Row is the southern part of Sandsend, closest to the beck and the old bridge, and it is where the Cinder Track, the former Whitby to Scarborough railway line, meets the village. From East Row you can walk south on the Cinder Track to Whitby in about an hour, or north along the Cleveland Way toward Runswick Bay.

For a car-free visitor, the practical base is Sandsend or Whitby. Buses stop on the main road at the top of the village, a short walk down to the beach. The Sandsend car park is at the bottom, near the beck, and the beach is a two-minute walk from there. There are cafes and a pub in the village, and the beach is accessible year-round, though the tide comes in quickly on the northern end. The Sandsend Notes site covers the shore and villages between Staithes and Robin Hood's Bay in more detail, including the alum works and the Cinder Track.

02 Why is Staithes worth visiting on a car-free North Yorkshire coast trip?

Staithes is a former fishing village built into a narrow valley, with a harbour at the bottom and houses stacked on the cliffs above. It is worth the trip for three things: the harbour and the view back from the breakwater, the narrow streets of the old town, and the Captain Cook connection. James Cook lived in Staithes as a young man, working in a shop on the High Street before he went to sea, and the Captain Cook and Staithes Heritage Centre on the High Street tells that story. The village also has a small beach and a few pubs and cafes.

Without a car, Staithes is reached by the X4 bus from Whitby or Saltburn, which stops at the top of the village, or by train to Staithes station, which is actually in the neighbouring village of Hinderwell, about a mile and a half away. From the station, a footpath leads down to Staithes, or you can take the bus. The walk down from the top of the village to the harbour is steep, with steps in places, so allow time. Once at the bottom, the harbour wall gives a good view back to the village, and the beach is small but sheltered. The Cleveland Way passes through Staithes, so walkers can continue north to Runswick Bay or south to Whitby.

03 How do I reach Runswick Bay without a car and what should I do there?

Runswick Bay is a curved bay with a sandy beach and a village of whitewashed houses tucked under the cliffs. The X4 bus stops on the main road at the top of the bay, and from there a footpath leads down to the village and the beach, about a ten-minute walk. The beach is good for swimming and rock pooling, and at low tide you can walk around the point to Kettleness. The village has a pub and a cafe, and the Cleveland Way runs along the cliff top above the bay, offering views north to Staithes and south to Whitby.

Without a car, the simplest approach is the X4 bus from Whitby or Staithes, which runs roughly hourly during the day. The bus stop at the top of the bay is on the A174, and the path down is signposted. If you are walking the Cleveland Way, Runswick Bay is a natural stop between Staithes and Whitby, with the cliff-top path giving wide views of the coast. There is no train station at Runswick Bay; the nearest is at Hinderwell, about two miles away, so the bus is the practical option.

04 What else is on the car-free coast between Staithes and Robin Hood's Bay?

South of Runswick Bay, the coast runs to Whitby, a town with a railway station, bus links, and the ruins of Whitby Abbey on the headland above the harbour. The abbey is reached by a climb of 199 steps from the town, and the view from the top takes in the harbour and the pier. Whitby is also the southern end of the Cinder Track, which runs north to Ravenscar and Robin Hood's Bay. The track is a gentle, traffic-free route for walkers and cyclists, passing through woods and along the cliff tops.

Robin Hood's Bay is a village of narrow alleys and red-roofed houses built into a steep valley, with a beach at the bottom. It is reached by the X93 bus from Whitby, which stops at the top of the village, or by the Cinder Track from Whitby, about seven miles. The village has pubs and cafes, and the beach is good for fossil hunting. The Cleveland Way also passes through Robin Hood's Bay, so it is possible to walk the coast in stages using the bus and train network.

05 Practical notes for a car-free visit

The X4 and X93 buses run along the coast between Middlesbrough, Saltburn, Staithes, Runswick Bay, Sandsend, and Whitby, with roughly hourly service during the day. The Esk Valley line runs from Whitby to Middlesbrough via Grosmont, where the North Yorkshire Moors Railway connects to Pickering. Fares are capped on some routes, and a day ticket can cover multiple journeys. For walkers, the Cleveland Way and the Cinder Track provide traffic-free routes between the villages, though some sections are steep and exposed.

Accommodation is available in Sandsend, Whitby, Staithes, and Runswick Bay, with a range of guesthouses and pubs. The coast is busiest in summer, when parking fills early, but the bus and train services make it possible to visit without a car at any time of year. Check tide times before walking on the beach, especially at Sandsend and Runswick Bay, where the tide can cut off the northern end of the sand. The North York Moors National Park Authority publishes information on the Cleveland Way and the Cinder Track, and local bus timetables are available from the relevant operators.